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Pilgrimage Church of Maria Schnee in Virgen

In the district of Obermauern in the municipality of Virgen in East Tyrol stands the pilgrimage church Maria Schnee, a jewel of the late Gothic period, which fortunately has not fallen victim to the 'building rage' of the Baroque, as so many other churches have.

Pilgrimage Church of Maria Schnee in Obermauern
Pilgrimage Church of Maria Schnee in Obermauern - Michael Kranewitter - CC BY-SA 3.0

The Virgental was probably already missionized and at least partially Christianized during the time of the Roman Empire. There were most likely sacred buildings from the 4th century, but certainly since the early Middle Ages around 800. The church "Maria Schnee" is likely to be located on a pre-Christian cult site, as graves from Roman or the Migration Period were discovered nearby. The church, as it appears today, dates back to the mid-15th century, through the expansion of an older, early Gothic building.

It is uncertain when the pilgrimages began. The frequent weather caprices that the population of the valley suffered from were likely the reason, and "Maria Schnee" seemed to be the ideal advocate. An old Stations of the Cross leads directly from the center of Virgen up to the church. This Stations of the Cross was recently renovated and artistically redesigned.

An impressive monumental fresco of Saint Christopher, painted by Sebastian Gerumer in 1468 according to the inscription, adorns the exterior wall of the church. It is remarkably well-preserved and colorful, with a loving attention to detail.

But the interior of the church is particularly worth seeing. Upon entering through the main gate, visitors are immediately overwhelmed by the rich fresco decoration on the walls. Created by Simon von Taisten (1450 - 1515), the court painter of the Counts of Gorizia, they serve as a "biblia pauperum", a Bible for the poor and illiterate. They depict scenes of the Easter Gospel on the north wall, the Christmas story in the apse, as well as the death and ascension of Mary and the martyrdom of Saint Sebastian. The frescoes give the church space a uniquely atmospheric atmosphere, making the visit an impressive experience.

Also noteworthy is a special Easter tradition associated with the church "Maria Schnee": On the first Saturday after Easter, an unshorn ram adorned with ribbons and flowers is led in a procession to Obermauern and paraded around the altar three times before the service. The ram is considered sacrificed, and a real slaughter is not necessary. On the following "White Sunday", the animal is auctioned off after the mass, and the proceeds from the auction go to the pilgrimage church.

This tradition dates back to the time of the Thirty Years' War, specifically to the year 1635, when the plague raged in Tyrol. In gratitude for being saved from the Black Death, the people of Virgen vowed to make an annual pilgrimage with a ram to Lavant, about 50 km away. However, there were reportedly "unholy transgressions" on this long pilgrimage, so in 1920 the procession was shortened and relocated to Obermauern.

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