5 challenging Via Ferratas in Tyrol

Spectacular via ferratas in dreamlike nature, fantastic views, and majestic peaks - climbing in the Tyrolean and South Tyrolean Alps is an incomparable experience. However, the via ferratas listed here are only recommended for experienced climbers and require complete climbing equipment. They are not suitable for children.

Fernau Express (Stubai Alps)
Despite its relatively low altitude, the Fernau Express is one of the most difficult via ferratas in Tyrol, not only because of the many extremely demanding individual sections, but also because there are hardly any resting places. The Express route is a real sport climbing route of superlatives, runs to the left of the well-known Fernau route and has the same entry and exit points.
Take the cable car to the Dresdnerhütte, from there follow the red markings to the entry point. The route is continuously secured with steel cable, but only sparingly with brackets and footbridges. From the exit, walk to the summit of Egesengrat, from where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Stubai glaciers.

Altitude Dresdnerhütte: 2308 m, Entry: 2350 m
Altitude Egesengrat 2631 m
Approach time: 15 min
Climbing height: 160 - 320 m
Climbing time: 1.5 - 2.5 h
Difficulty: E

Kaiser Max-Klettersteig in der Martinswand (Karwendel)
A "classic" among the via ferratas, and in the second part one of the most difficult and physically demanding in the Eastern Alps. Near Zirl at the parking lot under the Martinswand, it starts, and the entry point can be reached via the marked path in a few minutes. Section I has difficulty levels C-D, if that's enough, you can exit to the Maximiliangrotte. In section II, it gets really tough, and only climbing professionals should venture in here. Smooth and sometimes vertical slabs demand everything from the climber.

Altitude Zirl: 622 m, Entry: 640 m
Climbing height: 280 - 350 m
Approach time: 10 min
Climbing time: 2.5 - 4 h
Difficulty: D/E

Dopamin-Klettersteig (Lienz Dolomites)
This beautiful route in the front part of the Galitzenklamm near Lienz is a real sport climbing route. The easier variant has a difficulty level of C/D, the difficult, direct route goes up to E/F and is not without reason called "Masochist". Especially the overhang called "Schweinebauch" is challenging, and in general, the Dopamine route demands extreme strength and technique from the climber. The entry point is located a few meters after the entrance to the gorge, the via ferrata is continuously secured with steel cable, but without footbridges.

Altitude Leisach: 712 m, Entry: 730 m
Climbing height 180 m
Approach time: 5 min
Climbing time: 60 min
Difficulty: C/D to E/F

Nasenwand (Ginzling, Zillertal Alps)
The via ferrata to the Nasenwand is located near the natural park house on the way to Tristner, the local mountain of Ginzling. The first part of the route with a difficulty level of C/D already demands a lot of strength, skill, and experience. When reaching the band under the nose, you can still leave the route via the emergency exit or venture into the really difficult second section. This is extremely physically demanding, especially the traverse at Indianerkopf (E) with overhangs is only for experienced professionals.

Altitude Ginzling: 985 m, Entry: 1030 m
Altitude Nose: 1310 m
Climbing height 300 m
Approach time: 10 min
Climbing time: 2.5 h
Difficulty: C/D to E

Tajakante-Klettersteig (Ehrwald, Wettersteingebirge)
In the area around the Coburger Hütte, there are several challenging via ferratas. One of the most scenic in all of Tyrol is probably the Tajakante route, and between difficult and demanding climbing passages, there are always flat sections where you can enjoy the magnificent panorama.
Take the cable car to the Ehrwalder Alm and follow the hiking trail to the Seebensee. At the material cable car to the Coburger Hütte, there is the turnoff to the entry point, which you reach after about 1.5 h. The route is divided into two parts, between which an extensive rest is recommended, because this via ferrata is not only technically demanding but also presents a challenge to your physical condition due to its length. The descent from the summit over the Drachensee to the Coburger Hütte requires surefootedness.

Altitude Coburger Hütte: 1917 m, Entry: 1850 m
Altitude Vorderer Tajakopf: 2456 m
Climbing height 580 m
Approach time: 1.5 h
Climbing time: 3.5 h
Difficulty: D/E

A tip from the mountain guide Hias