The mountain certainly lives up to its name, as hardly any other place in the otherwise very sunny Vinschgau is as spoiled by the sun. There are hardly any settlements on the Sonnenberg today, only the small clustered village of Tanas, some scattered settlements, and individual farms. Nevertheless, there are traces of settlements from pre-Roman times, and the slopes of the mountain have been used as pasture land since ancient times, and were cleared – especially in the High Middle Ages. Especially sheep and goats have grazed a wide strip of land, which naturally led to strong erosion on the steep slopes.
Sonnenberg / At the Sun Mountain
Erosion increasingly became a threat to the settlements in the valley, which from the 19th century tried to counteract through targeted reforestation with black pines and locust trees. However, the steppe vegetation was largely preserved on a 500 to 700 m wide strip.
The extreme climate has produced a very special fauna and flora, which is unique in the Alpine region. The soil temperatures reach up to 70° Celsius in summer, at the same time the temperature differences between day and night can be 50°. In winter, there is strong frost, and due to the southern exposure, there is usually no protective snow cover. The plants have to cope with an average of 500 mm of precipitation per year and are also exposed to the often fiercely whistling wind. The great heat also leads to efflorescence of bitter salts in many places, which are formed by the rise and evaporation of pore water.
The plants that can survive under these conditions must be particularly strong and resistant. Steppe grasses and flowering herbs and shrubs, including central Asian species, form a steppe-like vegetation cover. The sparse plant growth can suddenly turn into lush and colorful flowering splendor in some places, where moisture and sheltered locations promote growth.
Life under extreme conditions
The animal world has also adapted to the steppe climate of the Sonnenberg. Especially typical are lizards, Aesculapian snakes, asp vipers, ortolans, little owls, and rock ptarmigans. There are also remarkably many species of butterflies here.
For hikers, the Sonnenberg opens up on a variety of hiking trails. A very special experience is certainly the Vinschgau High Altitude Trail, which runs from Staben in the lower Vinschgau to the source of the Etsch River at Reschen Pass. It leads right through the wonderful flora of the Sonnenberg and also offers wonderful views of the opposite Ortler massif.
Our tip: In midsummer, it is often too hot for hikes on the Sonnenberg, but in spring or autumn, the landscape is all the more charming. The individual stages of the 108 km long Vinschgau High Altitude Trail are wonderful for day trips, as the high-altitude trail is easily accessible from the valley via hiking trails and cable cars.
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