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Klöckeln, an Advent tradition in the Sarntal valley

In the beautiful Sarntal in South Tyrol, many old customs still live on that have long been forgotten elsewhere. This originality is due to the secluded location of the Sarntal, which can only be accessed from the south through the Sarner Gorge and from the north, from Sterzing, via the Penser Joch.

Klöckeln, an Advent tradition in the Sarntal
Klöckeln, an Advent tradition in the Sarntal

Both driveways are often closed due to snow conditions or rockfall, a third road over the Ritten is so narrow and winding that it is impassable for buses or trucks.

Thus, there is also an ancient Advent tradition in the Sarntal, the 'Klöckeln'. The 'Klöckeln' is practiced on the three Thursdays before the winter solstice. White-cloaked and masked figures in traditional costume move through the villages in the Sarntal in the dark with music, noise, goat's horn trumpets, bells, and din, and 'klocken' (knock) on the front doors. They sing the 'Klöckellied' - 'Heint ischt uns eine heiligschte Klöckelsnocht' - and thus ask for mild donations: 'Iez werd man uns boll a gibrotne Wurst bringin/Jo, sei`s a gebrotne Wurst odr sei`s a Stuck Speck/So gien olt mir Klöcklar mit Freidn aweck', it says at the end of the Klöckellied. Having received the gifts, the Klöckler thank with a song of thanks and wish 'a glickselige güete Nocht und a freidnreichs nuis Jour'.

Among the figures that must not be missing at the 'Klöcklzug' are the accordion player and the 'Lottrsackträger'. The former provides the musical setting, while the 'Lottrsackträger' collects money from the homeowners and spectators. The accordion player also accompanies the song of thanks, but is silent during the 'Klöckellied'. The 'Zusslmandl' and the 'Zusslweibele', a married couple, with both characters of course being portrayed by men, also play a special role. The figures symbolize the struggle of winter with spring. All masks are handmade and made of natural materials such as coarse fabric, sheep's wool, fur, or tree beard; carnival-like masks are frowned upon.

At the end of the 'Klöckelnacht', a celebration takes place on a farm. The masks are taken off, and there is eating, dancing, singing, and drinking. In the past, the collected gifts were only consumed on St. Stephen's Day, as Advent was a time of fasting. The 'Klöckeln' was originally widespread throughout the Alpine region, and it probably goes back to the Germanic, pre-Christian cult of the winter solstice. In the course of Christianization, this cult - like so many others - was increasingly overlaid with Christian symbolism and embellished with the Christian legend of the search for an inn. In the Sarntal, however, you can still experience a very original, authentic variant of this custom, in which many 'pagan' elements are openly apparent!

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